is shown on the photo a sports jacket in Harris tweed of Master Tailors Adam, Graz, in the year 1989.
The photo shows the wedge (= dart) to be covered lodges under the lapels when the top of jacket to be very narrow, but still offer enough space for insertion of a wallet to etc.. Or if you want the reverse winding and the Kassur, the dividing line to the upper collar should be very high and steep. This way you can stuff "take away" without the one that looks and there are no wrinkles in spite of spatial convenience, the Drape keeping very limited.
darts or "wedge" (Schneider Austrian language)) are an effective way textiles to adapt the contours of the human body. You find such darts as well as recordable yes trousers in the buttocks or the front parts of women's costumes. Perfectionists sometimes share - of course, as unobtrusively as possible - those darts to achieve a better Musterpassung, especially at very conspicuous plaid or stripe patterns.
